From City Lights to Quiet Shrines: A 21-Day Japan Itinerary for Couples

I recently caught up with Virginia & Marc to hear all about their 21-day adventure across Japan. Their itinerary stood out for its unique mix of popular cities and off-the-beaten-path destinations like Kanazawa and Takayama—two spots that aren’t typically on a first-time visitor’s list but add so much character to a trip. I also appreciated how they made time to visit Yokohama and Kobe, two cities I always recommend for a well-rounded visit.

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Days 1-6: Tokyo (Sep 7 - Sep 12)

Stay: APA Hotel Higashi Shinjuku Kabukicho Tower

• Day 1 (Sep 7): Arrival in Tokyo

  • Highlights: Settle into accommodation, explore local Shinjuku area and Golden Gai

• Day 2 (Sep 8): Shibuya, Harajuku & Naka Meguro

  • Morning: Meiji Jingu Shrine, walked around Harajuku and Omotesando

  • Afternoon & Evening: Visited a dog café and walked to Shibuya Crossing. Visited Meguro Sky Garden and walked to the Naka Meguro neighbourhood. &SPIRITS Bar, beers at Arl Eee Nakameguro, and dinner at まこちゃん 中目黒店

• Day 3 (Sep 9): Asakusa, Akihabara and the Tokyo Tower

  • Morning: Asakusa and Sensō-ji Temple. Went up the Tokyo Skytree and stopped by Muya bakery nearby

  • Afternoon & Evening: Lunch at Din Tai Fung at Tokyo Solamachi mall right below the Tokyo Skytree. Afterward went to Zōjō-ji near Tokyo Tower and Akihabara to play video games. Dinner at Oden Ryori Owariya and afterward to a cocktail bar called BAR B

• Day 4 (Sep 10): Odaiba Island and Ginza

  • Morning: Tsukiji Fish Market and walked around Odaiba for a few hours

  • Afternoon & Evening: Explored the Ginza neighbourhood and had lunch at Tenryu Gyoza. Stopped by the flagship Uniqlo store in the same area. Dinner at an izakaya called Maruko Suisan in Shinjuku and afterward to a cocktail bar called Lilac

• Day 5 (Sep 11): Day trip to Kamakura

  • Morning: Left Tokyo to head to Kamakura for a day trip with the first stop at the Great Buddha at Kotoku-in Temple

  • Afternoon & Evening: Lunch at an izakaya called めし処呑み処 しらす屋 海畑 and afterward went to Genjiyama Park. Stopped by Verve Coffee Roasters and walked to the sea side. Headed back to Tokyo and explored the Shimokitazawa neighbourhood and had dinner at Gastropub GOZO

• Day 6 (Sep 12): Thrift shopping at Shimokitazawa

  • Morning: Breakfast at Bagelcafe88 and returned to the Shimokitazawa neighbourhood to visit the thrift stores

  • Afternoon & Evening: Return to Shinjuku and walked around. Saw the giant 3D Cat billboard display. Dinner at Din Tai Fung in Shibuya

Days 7-9: Kanazawa & Takayama (Sep 13 - Sep 15)

Stay: Hotel Torifito Kanazawa and Hotel Wing International Hida Takayama

• Day 7 (Sep 13): Travel to Kanazawa

  • Morning: Took the bullet train to Kanazawa and had lunch at an udon restaurant called 長土塀 加登長

  • Afternoon & Evening: Visited a café called townsfolk coffee. Explored Kanazawa Castle Park and walked around Nagamachi. Visisted Kanazawa City Ashigaru Museum and dinner at Sushi Sukiyaki Tempura Restaurant

• Day 8 (Sep 14): Travel to Shirakawa-go and Takayama

  • Morning: Took a bus directly to Shirakawa-go to explore the area

  • Afternoon & Evening: Took the bus to Takayama and dinner at Akanamban Yakinuku restaurant and drinks afterward at the Rabbit Hole cocktail bar

• Day 9 (Sep 15): Exploring Takayama

  • Morning: Coffee at Falo Coffee Brewers

  • Afternoon & Evening: Lunch at Nogawa Noodles and went to Takayama Jinya museum, Yoshijima Traditional House, and Kusakube Traditional House. Dinner at Rokubee Yakiniku restaurant and drinks afterward at Purple Plus bar

Days 10-13: Kyoto (Sep 16 - Sep 19)

Stay: Wander Kyoto Nanajo

• Day 10 (Sep 16): Arrival in Kyoto

  • Morning: Coffee at Brand New Day Coffee in Takayama and then took the train to Kyoto

  • Afternoon & Evening: Ate at a local sandwich store called Ohanabatake and then explored Kiyomizu Dera

• Day 11 (Sep 17): The main Kyoto attractions

  • Morning: Visited again Kiyomizu Dera temple, this time in the morning to avoid the crowds. Afterwards went to the Geisha District and then to Kyoto Gyoen National Garden

  • Afternoon & Evening: Visited the Zen Ryoanji Temple Rock Garden, then to Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Temple), and okonomiyaki dinner at Yamamoto Mambo

• Day 12 (Sep 18): Exploring more of Kyoto

  • Morning: Woke up early to arrive at Fushimi Inari Shrine at 6 AM

  • Afternoon & Evening: Relaxed and in the evening had dinner at 京都お好み焼き 銭座庵 糸

• Day 13 (Sep 19): Day trip to Nara and Uji

  • Morning: Travelled to Nara and explored Nara Park with the many deers

  • Afternoon & Evening: Lunch at a Vietnamese sandwich shop called Chop Chop Bahn Mi in Uji and in the evening, returned to Kyoto

Days 14-17: Osaka & Hakone (Sep 20 - Sep 23)

Stay: Noku Osaka Hotel, Bespoke Osaka Hotel, and Hakone Hotel

• Day 14 (Sep 20): Travel to Osaka

  • Morning: Left Kyoto to travel to Osaka and visited Osaka Castle

  • Afternoon & Evening: Coffee at Nova Cafe and walked around Osaka and Dotonbori

• Day 15 (Sep 21): Day trip to Kobe

  • Morning: Travel to Kobe

  • Afternoon & Evening: Lunch at Kobe Beef Steak Restaurant Mouriya Honten and afterward, went to Nishimura Coffee. Used the Kobe Nunobiki Ropeway and explored the garden and park. Afterward walked around the harbor of Kobe. Dinner at Okonomiyaki Hikari and return to Osaka in the evening

• Day 16 (Sep 22): Travel to Hakone

  • Morning: Left Osaka via bullet train to travel to Hakone

  • Afternoon & Evening: Went on a boat tour of Lake Ashi and then to a cafe called Komon

• Day 17 (Sep 23): Rest day in Hakone due to rain

Looking back, Virginia & Marc would have stayed a night in Kobe and wished they could skip Hakone due to the weather

Days 18-21: Yokohama & Tokyo (Sep 24 - Sep 27)

Stay: Mitsui Garden Hotel Yokohama and Candeo Hotel Roppongi

• Day 18 (Sep 24): Travel to Yokohama

  • Morning: Travelled to Hakone and explored Yokohama Chinatown

  • Afternoon & Evening: Took the Yokohama Air Cabin to the Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse and went to Shogun Burger. Dinner at 横浜中華街 小籠包専門店七福

• Day 19 (Sep 25): Return to Tokyo

  • Morning: Returned to Tokyo

  • Afternoon & Evening: Explored the area around the Ueno neighbourhood, went to the Imperial Palace and then to the Tokyo National Museum. Spent time at a bookstore with English books in the Marunouchi building next to Tokyo Station called MARUZEN Marunouchi

• Day 20 (Sep 26): Exploring Tokyo

  • Morning: Explored the Yanaka Ginza district including Rikugien Garden and the Sugamo Jizodori Shopping Street

  • Afternoon & Evening: Lunch at Dashitokona Okonomiyaki and had coffee at Allpress Espresso Tokyo Roastery. Returned to MARUZEN Marunouchi. Dinner at Butagumi Shokudo in Roppongi

• Day 21 (Sep 27): Final Day in Tokyo

  • Morning: Spent time at Starbucks in Roppongi

  • Afternoon & Evening: Returned to Akihabara and then headed to MARUZEN Marunouchi for the third time. Flew back home in the evening